THE HOUSE — HUNAN COOKING IN PARIS 3RDFrom Mount Yuelu to rue du Vertbois

In Changsha, Mount Yuelu looks down on the Xiang river. That is where Lin Wei learned to salt pork belly, to ferment chilli in stoneware jars and never to let a wok cool down. Since 2019 she has been cooking that memory on rue du Vertbois, in a thirty-seat room. The chilli comes from Xiangxi, the pork is smoked on site over tea wood, the fish arrives from Rungis every morning. The menu stays short: fire is the one thing you cannot share.

Chilli hides nothing, it reveals.